From luxury spas to street pedicures: two sides to Nigeria's beauty boom

Every Friday, Oladapo Akindele drops off his boss at the glass-fronted entrance of a luxury spa in Lagos. Then, while he waits for her, the driver has his nails polished and scrubbed in a cheaper but equally popular pedicure stand on the roadside next to open sewers.

Itinerant barbers who throw in manicures and pedicures are an enduring fixture in the choked streets of Africa's largest metropolis. It can prove a profitable trade in a highly fashion-conscious city. "I use these people all the time because I don't have time to visit salons when I'm driving from morning until evening," Akindele says as Indian oil is massaged on to his feet following a 150 naira (60p) mani-pedi.

The love of grooming across all social spheres tells a tale of two sides of the bustling city. Although natural beauty therapies such as honey waxes have long been popular in Nigeria, spas that elevate the pursuit of beauty to an extreme sport are a new phenomenon. At the top end, western-style establishments are booming in Lagos, promising glowing health and beauty with pure oxygen facials or 24-carat gold leaf wraps for those who can afford it.

"Ten years ago it would have been impossible to find a place like this in Nigeria," says one worker in the perfumed interior of an upmarket beauty parlour. After arriving from India six years ago, the spas' founders discovered there was enough demand for Ayurveda facials – using a blend of Indian herbs – to open another branch.

"It's nice that you no longer have to go abroad to get this kind of thing," says Yemisi Williams, a customer at another health club, as a Thai beautician smothers her body in a chocolate and marshmallow wrap and a concoction with crushed diamonds is plastered on to her face. "It's not just about looking good, because people are more aware of the health benefits too."

At the other end of society, the trade is dominated by Muslim men from the impoverished north of the country. Beneath a busy flyover in central Lagos, traders' voices pierce through the roar of traffic. A jingle of flattened bottle-tops announces men pushing wheelbarrows full of plastic barrels of water, the main supply in many areas of the city. The click-clack of scissors leads to the outdoor beauticians, who sit on benches, their equipment laid out on newspapers.

"Once I went to a conventional salon. It wasn't a nice experience at all. These people do a much better job for cheaper," says Bashir, a lawyer who has been visiting for nine years, as a barber rubs his newly shaved head with a local crystal pebble to prevent razor bumps.

"We do home visits too because big men don't like to come here," says Mohammed, a barber, as he gestures towards open gutters and ramshackle buildings. His clients include a local politician who sends his driver once a week to pick him up, paying 10,000 naira – a 200% increase on the usual price – to have his hair cut at home.

Treatments promise medical miracles. Customers gingerly step over trash-filled puddles to inspect bottles of honey from forests in the north, and bits of bark used as painkillers laid out on the kerb.

"The pharmacist actually directed me here," says Sesan Gbadebo, a policeman who was having his corns sliced off with a scalpel and a grey powder made of ground leaves rubbed on to his swollen feet. "If it's a small thing I'll go to the hospital, but for real problems I prefer here."

Not everyone is a fan. The men are periodically chased away by officials, who say their unorthodox methods sometimes worsen serious illnesses and risk passing on diseases including HIV. The barbers say they are careful to change razors with each client, although a frequent lack of running water makes it all but impossible to sterilise equipment.

Still, their steady stream of clients shows no sign of abating. "They know how to use local medicines to the best effect," says Aliyu Raibu, as a barber who doubled as a therapist prepares to treat his aching back using an ancient blood-suction technique, in which a dried-out bull's horn draws painful clotted blood from a tiny incision in the skin.

Amber Valletta's New E-Commerce Line for Yoox Focuses on Ethical Fashion‬

“I couldn’t sleep at all last night,” says Amber Valletta, on set at the Highline Stages in New York, where she’s being shot by Craig McDean. As one of the world’s top models, the Los Angeles–based Valletta, 39, is beyond camera fright. What’s keeping her awake is the fact that these photos aren’t for someone else’s magazine or label: They’re for Master & Muse, Valletta’s new e-commerce project with Yoox focusing on ethical and environmentally responsible fashion. As she says, “I’m the model and the client.”

Valletta’s nerves are understandable, if unwarranted. Good taste and social awareness come naturally to her—and two decades as one of the industry’s most in-demand faces have earned her a kind of ultimate insider status. Who better to bring a sharp, informed eye to a genre that too often is more hippie-dippie than hip? “I didn’t want to see, like, leaves and trees and granola and flip-flops [on the site],” she says, laughing. “I wanted to see fashion.”

To that end, the selection Valletta and her team have curated reflects both a sense of responsibility and the idea of what’s happening on the runways now. For instance, long and lean jeans with a cool seventies vibe (which showed up in several resort collections) can be found from Goodsociety, a sustainable denim line from Germany; and M. Patmos’s slouchy organic-fiber sweaters and loose tanks can be piled underneath biker jackets—made from recycled motor
cycle seats—by a little-known collection called the Sway. Eveningwear, an area not often explored by the green movement, is covered as well: Valletta found edgy, semi-sheer jumpsuits from zero-waste company 100% NY by Daniel Silverstein. “We really looked at the brands and made sure what they do is right,” she says.

Prioritizing design alongside purpose is important to Valletta outside of work, too. At home—a 1929 Santa Monica bungalow she shares with her husband, Christian McCaw, a former Olympic volleyball player, and their twelve-year-old son, Auden—she’s planted lemon and loquat trees and installed solar panels and a Tesla charging station. She’s also planning to participate in the city’s innovative water-conservation program. “I grew up in Oklahoma, around nature, so that’s what inspires me,” says Valletta. “The farther away from it I am, the less peaceful I feel.”

When she does go out, this booster of the Natural Resources Defense Council bikes or walks to the Brentwood Country Mart, a hub for favorite spots including field-to-table restaurant Farmshop and small-batch ice-cream shop Sweet Rose Creamery. Valletta and her husband are also hockey superfans and recently took the Metro Rail to an L.A. Kings game—conveniently bypassing gridlock from the American Idol season finale filming near the Staples Center. But before envying the supermodel for both her otherworldly beauty and her virtue, know that she’s also real. Sure, she may want her family to go packaging-free for a week, “but I’m not going to be psycho mom telling Auden he can’t have a Clif Bar,” she says.

In other words, Valletta allows room in her life for, well, life. It’s why she’s able to keep her cool at Master & Muse’s New York shoot when only a fraction of the shoes have arrived because Guava, a small Portuguese label that hand-makes each pair, doesn’t have the capability to produce a huge run of samples. Rather than freak out, Valletta thinks creatively. Maybe she’ll throw them in the air. “If you look up muse, it doesn’t mean a woman standing in the corner looking beautiful,” she says. “It’s actually an active, powerful word.”

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Orley Goes All Out

Orley—the effervescent New York-based menswear label designed by brothers Alex and Matthew Orley, and the latter’s fiancée, Samantha Florence—has come a long way since launching with only a handful of playful jumpers last year. Having previously focused on knitwear, Orley unveiled its first full-fledged collection for Spring ’14—all forty-five pieces of it. “Knits are still eighty percent of the [line],” offered Samantha. “But this season, we were able to build off feedback we’ve gotten from the retailers, now that we have some sales history.” And an impressive sales history it is—after only four seasons on the scene, the brand is already sold by Bergdorf Goodman, Fivestory, Carson Street Clothiers, and Tokyo’s United Arrows, among others.

The designers like to avoid any literal references when dreaming up their luxe cashmere, linen, and cotton wares. But this season, a hint of the Italian coast couldn’t help but sneak its way in. “It all starts with the palette,” explained Alex. “And recently, we had been spending a lot of time on the Adriatic because that’s where our factories are, so there are some Mediterranean reference points in the colors, the floral motifs, and the loucheness of the collection.” This comes through in a laid-back trousers-and-jacket combo cut from burnt-red linen, as well as striped cardigans in various hues of citrus or aqua, and pullovers done in oversize floral prints. “Really, it always comes back to how Matthew and I want to dress,” continued Alex of the brand’s aesthetic. “It’s irreverent—a little bit tossed on and colorful, and it doesn’t take itself too seriously.”

Considering the emerging menswear boom we’ve seen in New York of late (just look at Public School, Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, and the like), young brands need a little something extra to stand out. And the Orley crew asserts that its appeal lies in the sheer quality of its product. The knits, all of which are produced in Italy (wovens are made right here in the USA), are crafted with top-notch yarns from mills like Loro Piana and Cariaggi. And one can’t overlook the to-a-T details, like horn and gilded buttons, grosgrain and leather trims, and combination linings.

Orley seems well positioned to forge ahead, and it has big goals for the future, including expanded e-commerce, suiting, and—a few years down the road—a stand-alone store. As for the team’s family dynamic, Alex insists that it helps the creative process. “If it comes down to a decision that we really can’t agree on, Matthew and I will arm wrestle,” he said, laughing. The biggest talking point this season? “I’ve been yelling at Matthew to propose to Sam for five years now, and this year he finally did it,” said Alex. “So that was the main point of discussion.”

Sheryl Crow, 51, shows off her toned figure in a rippling dress at a charity event to save the oceans

Sheryl Crow not only puts her money where her mouth is, she also sings to support a cause she believes in.

The country star performed at a private concert on Sunday in Laguna Beach, California, to raise money at the Oceana SeaChange Summer Party.

The fabulously fit 51-year-old was suitably dressed in a grey and white layered dress that rippled over her like a cool wave of water.

Crow paired the beautiful outfit with steel grey and silver paneled shoes and carried a grey wrap to keep her warm once the sun set.

The breast cancer survivor showed off her incredibly toned and tanned figure that makes her look far younger than her years.

Sheryl does Beachbody trainer Tony Horton's P90X workout DVDs at home, which focus on 'muscle confusion' to keep your body constantly challenged and induce change.

'I take workouts with me on tour: P90X, Tracy Anderson. I do them in the hotel rooms,' revealed the 100 Miles From Memphis singer to Self Magazine.

'I'm not big about going to gyms. I've been known to workout out on a treadmill or StairMaster, but my first choice is really getting outside and running. That's where I can really clear my head.'

As for her famously sculpted in arms that she showed off in the capped sleeved dress on Sunday, Sheryl has previously claimed that they are a result of good genes - and motherhood.

'I have to be honest with you, I come by them naturally,' said Lance Armstrong's ex-girlfriend, who has two adopted sons, Wyatt and Levi. 'I lift a 3-year-old throughout the day; I'm sure that has something to do with it.'

All those workouts no doubt meant that the C'mon C'mon singer could enjoy the gourmet sit down dinner at the Oceana gala held at a private estate called Villa di Sogni, before hosting the live auction.

The exclusive charity event raised money to fund the largest international organization focused on the ocean conservation.

'We believe in the importance of science in identifying problems and solutions,' explains the Oceana website Our scientists work closely with our teams of economists, lawyers and advocates to achieve tangible results for the oceans.'

Some of their biggest victories have included an EU ban on shark finning, halting offshore drilling in Belize, reforms for Europe's fisheries and protection of Great White sharks in California.

Crow was joined at the exclusive evening by a celebrity friends including Anne Heche, who wore a classic dusky pink dress with a zippered neck detail.

Cheers star Ted Danson was there with his actress wife, Mary Steenburgen, in a pink and navy blue ensemble.

Miley Cyrus' Hannah Montana co-star, Emily Osment was also in attendance. The 21-year-old singer/actress - whose brother is Sixth Sense star Haley Joel Osment - wore a nautical theme sailor jacket over a white dress with red sandals.

Wren Dives In With The Lake & Stars

Wren designer Melissa Coker has been a fan of The Lake & Stars’ luxe lingerie since the New York-based brand launched, in 2007. “I remember I asked my mom for some of their stuff for Christmas,” she recalled. So when Wren became friends with the intimates line’s founders, Nikki Dekker and Maayan Zilberman, through mutual pals five years ago, a collaboration was inevitable. “We’d always say, ‘Oh wouldn’t it be great to see this or that [Wren] print on their pieces,’” offered Coker. And for Resort ’13, the trio has finally made it happen, with a vintage-inspired swimwear capsule, which debuts exclusively here. Consisting of eighteen pieces, the range marks Wren’s first foray into swim, and will include cover-ups, beach accessories, and one- and two-piece maillots—the latter of which come with pinup-style high-waisted bottoms, as well as standard briefs. Each piece merges The Lake & Stars signatures (like crisscross backs and oversize mesh detailing) with updated versions of hardware, trims, and prints from Wren’s past collections. “My favorite is the red-and-hot-pink Lava Leopard print (below),” said Coker. A tie-dye pattern, as well a black-and-white ikat print, will also be on offer.

The L.A.-based Coker—who admits that she’s a “one-piece person in theory but a two-piece person in practice”—said that the collection was, in part, spurred by the fact that she can never quite find what she’s looking for when shopping for swimwear. “I don’t want, like, a fringe string bikini,” she laughed. “I want something colorful, out of the ordinary, sophisticated, and fun. I think the collaboration embodies all these things—the suits look special.” Coker reports that the friends don’t have any immediate plans for a future capsule, but, she hints, “There could potentially be an evolution. Never say never.”

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Lauren Laverne on style: autumn essentials

Autumn is the best season to get dressed. It is fashion's full moon: these are the collections that really sell, so the industry is at creative and fiscal full wax (which is why Vogue's September issue is a big enough deal to make a documentary about). It's also the time for enduring style: for forest tones, new boots and a good coat to catch the first whiff of bonfires in.

I wrote in praise of the season's comforting umami quality this time last year. It's good to know that I'm not alone in having a wardrobe which is 70% autumn clothes (plus 5% seasonal items and 25% almost-but-not-quite-identical leopard-print dresses). So, having appraised Autumn/Winter's key trends a couple of weeks back, today I've chosen some new-season buys that will last a little longer. And what with it still being August I've thrown in some great transitional pieces, which should take you from "legs out" to "opaques" and back again.

Petit Bateau is a great first port of call for classic style, and this season the French label has been given an infusion of aesthetic oxygen by the design duo behind Paris fashion and music label Kitsune, who have been appointed Petit Bateau's artistic directors. Their first collection is cutely yachty, with pea coats, stripes and knits in red, navy, camel and white.

Ever since it was a back-to-school treat, the annual purchase of a new "big coat" has felt special to me. It's been a while since I visited M&S for outerwear, but this season's collection might change my mind. The coats are particularly fab.

If you're more worried about catching a shower than getting cold, invest in Terra rainwear, which is 100% waterproof and equally cool.

For city chic, J-Crew leads the way. The autumn collection is full of sharp but useful classics.

On a more alternative tip, east London label The Whitepepper is my favourite autumn find so far. Their smock dresses and midis are perfect trans-seasonal items.

Speaking of east London brands, the footwear genies at Miista are about to unleash their new collection. Brogues in butter-soft (holographic!) leather and their first handbag collection are new-season treats.

Hobbs' offshoot NW3 is always a go-to for cool-but-understated pieces. My wish list includes these Cecile heels and this cat keyring which is practically pointless yet completely joyful, like so many of the best things in life.

Finally, Topshop might not be a regular pitstop for assiduously ethical shoppers, but if you haven't checked this season's Boutique range, you should. It's British made and beautiful.

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Beauty Staple: Hilary Rhoda's Statement Brows

WHO: Hilary Rhoda, the New York City–based model

WHAT: “I’ve had thick eyebrows my whole life. People were telling me that I looked like Brooke Shields before I even knew who that was. When I got to middle school, all the girls started taking their older sisters’ tweezers and plucking. I was tempted, but my mother always told me to never touch them. I’m glad that I listened to her. In fact, it’s actually a miracle that I came out unscathed because it was that time in the nineties when pencil-thin eyebrows were the look.”

WHEN: “They don’t really grow that much outside of their shape so I’ve never had to do threading or waxing or anything like that. Although every time I go and get a manicure in New York, the aestheticians ask me if I want an eyebrow wax and I’m like ‘No thanks!’ I just pluck them myself a little bit. Just one or two hairs when I see them. The only time I let someone touch them was when we shot the cover of Vogue. Steven Meisel came over and started tweezing a few stray hairs away and I was just like, ‘All right, I’m going to let this happen. I trust him.’ Grooming-wise, I use Estée Lauder Brow Setting Gel. I put it on in the morning and it lasts through the day. I also have this habit of pinching them from the inner corners to the ends to keep everything in place.”

WHY: “I use my eyebrows to express myself. Once for a Viktor & Rolf runway show, the makeup artist glued them down and put concealer over them. I kept furrowing my brow and you couldn’t see anything. It felt very blank. I also love my brows because they frame my face and they’re dramatic—which means I can get away with wearing less makeup!”

These Explain Why Women Wear Waist Beads

Beads are usually small round pieces of pierced glass, wood or metal strung together to serve as adornment for the waist, neck or ankle beads.

Waist Beads are common with females and they are an excellent tool for women to feel more feminine and beautiful. These beautiful gemstone waist beads are hand made and customized. The tradition of wearing beads is an age long one, from time immemorial; it has been worn for varying reasons by the royalty, for body adornment, deification and decoration.

The wearing of beads on the waist was made popular by the Yorubas in Nigeria. Overtime the culture of the use of beads has been associated with both spiritual and material reasons. In some parts of Africa, the beads are anointed in oils and the woman stands over a smoked pot and commences to ‘smoke her self’.

This practice aids in sensory pleasure for the man. Some beads are adorned with bells, which is a signal to let the man know that the woman wants to engage in sexual intercourse. The Yorubas have a revered usage attached to the waist beads. It is also worn as a form of birth control, as a way of preventing obesity or also for their ‘healing’ and therapeutic powers.

They refer to the waist bead as ILEKE or LAGIDIGBA is made of palm nut shells string together, while the ‘bebe’ which is also worn around the waist is made of glass.

The Yorubas have a belief that the waist beads possess some erotic appeal and have the power to incite desire or deep emotional response on men. Waist Beads in Yoruba are also used for birth control, the beads are laced with charms and worn by the women to prevent conception and were also around the waist of baby girls to perfectly shape her buttocks.

Gone are the days when beads have been thought to be worn by ‘UNSOPHISTICATED’, forward or slutty women alone, also different stories abound on the usage of waist beads by ladies and some men who believe they are infused or laced with charms or Juju or Juju will never touch a woman wearing beads with a 10 foot pole for the fear of falling under the supposed spell of such women.

For a while, waist beads almost went into extinction but now the re emergence of beads has added a new dimension into the craze among Nigerian Ladies. While some men ablor it, some request their partners get them as it makes them more sensual and attractive.